But to experience the best meal in Park City, you’ll have to book a room at the Washington School House. This 12-room boutique hotel, which occupies a 19th century schoolhouse and feels like a cross between a Parisian atelier and a Nancy Meyers movie, only serves guests. Chef Ryan Frye changes the menu frequently and draws on influences from Mexico and Southeast Asia to elevate comfort food to ethereal heights. His lobster tartine evokes summer on the water, even as snow dusts the elms outside. On a recent night, he follows up that tartine with a morsel of mole-dressed short rib—“better than Pujol,” one diner says—and a mouth-tingling green curry of root vegetables. “My philosophy is that there are no rules,” Frye says. “Use what the world provides.” His is a spirit of resourcefulness that defines this vibrant, adapting ski town, famous for a star-studded film festival but notable for so many reasons more. “We’re all just kind of doing what we can with what we’ve got,” Gosch, the ski instructor, says on my final morning on the mountain, and what Park City’s got is well worth the trip.
One of the hottest tables in town is actually a yurt. In December, the St. Regis Deer Valley erected three insulated yurts that look like pop-up ski chalets, complete with chandeliers, framed art, personal heaters, and the sort of cross-hatched wood paneling you’d expect to find inside an Alsatian hut. Each yurt can fit up to eight people. “They’re super popular with my clients right now,” says Lucien Alex Campbell, the owner of RTT Concierge, a travel planning service. He also owns Onyx, a socially distanced wine lounge on Main Street, which serves a rotating selection of champagne, caviar, and charcuterie. “If you’re not comfortable coming out, we’ll come to you,” he adds. “Our sommeliers come with masks, face shields, the works.” Campbell has sent more than a few somms to Apex, a new ski in, ski out residential development next to Park City Mountain. All of the owners of Apex’s 63 high-design, multi-story homes come from out of state—the east coast, Texas, California, and Illinois—and many rent them out to other out-of-towners through a proprietary booking website, as well as Airbnb and VRBO. “Our business is up a huge amount over last year,” says Terry Nolan, Apex’s property manager. “I think that’s because a lot of travelers look at us as a refuge. With these kitchens,” double ovens, wine coolers, 10-burner stoves, “you can come here, hunker down and not have to go out for dinner or expose yourself to other visitors.”
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