Sie kommen, naked, Vogue Paris, Paris 1981, © The Helmut Newton Estate / Maconochie Photography Newton said, “I love women. There is nothing I love more.” He remarked that he wanted to present his women as strong and powerful. However, he has been called misogynistic, most memorably to his face by writer, activist and philosopher Susan Sontag. The clip from French TV features in a new documentary called Helmut Newton: The Bad and the Beautiful (2020).
Amid #MeToo, his images are more complicated to translate. Today we talk about positionality, the social and political context that creates your identity. Newton was a heterosexual cisgender white male, working during an era when it would not have been the mainstream view to acknowledge that his photography might have been symbolic of a patriarchal society. The pictures were enjoyed for their titillating fantasies, alluding to sexually charged power tussles between prey and predator, which he imagined and constructed. It is also important to recognize the autonomous eroticism of his leading female stars. Grace Jones says in the trailer for the aforementioned documentary, “He was a little bit pervert, but so am I!”
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